2 How It All Began

People often ask me where my interest in Ireland comes from and how it became so…well…extreme. I’ve been obsessed with the country—its history, literature, landscape, culture and everything else about it—for a long time. My interest was piqued when I was ten or eleven and discovered a copy of Finnegans Wake on my parents’ eclectic bookshelves in our house on Lincolnwood Drive, Evanston, Illinois. Both of them were readers and always had books stacked on their nightstands and near their chairs. The bookshelves covered two corner walls in the living room and one long wall in the den and included everything from complete sets of Mark Twain, Charles Dickens, George Eliot, P.G. Wodehouse, and Samuel Eliot Morison’s History of the United States Naval Operations in World War II to the novels of Nevil Shute, Jack Higgins, Angela Thirkell, and John Le Carré. They even had the collected poems of e. e. cummings and The Kinsey Reports. But Finnegans Wake? I can’t imagine that either of them ever read it. I will admit to never having read Finnegans Wake either, but I remember thumbing through the book long ago and facing up to the fact that I had a lot to learn before I would understand what was going on in those pages. Connecting the book to Joyce and Joyce to Ireland followed in due course, and more associations began to emerge. My aunt Ellen (never Aunt Ellen, but just Ellen) mentioned that the family on the Cozzens side had an Irish connection (among the Swedes, Scots, English, etc.); our great grandfather Nicholas Cozzens came to the US as a boy during or shortly after the Great Famine of 1845-52. A glimmer of Ireland’s “underdog” status in history intrigued me further. I finally read A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man in high school and loved it, though it was a very different book for me than the one I read in Bill Chace’s Joyce course at Stanford following my first trip to Ireland in 1971. That first trip with Claudia Cohen, my roommate from Stanford, sowed the seeds of later interests in Ireland’s soggy, boggy soil. From our spring semester jobs at a primary school in London, we took the student budget route—the overnight ferry from Holyhead to Dún Laoghaire—and spent the first few days crashing on the floor of a friend’s “bed-sit” in the Dublin suburbs....
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1 Greyness Run to Flower

In “The View from Here” (“An Radharc d’Anseo” in Irish) I’m writing about living in Ireland from the perspective of someone who has visited the island many times, taught Irish literature and history, helped countless friends plan their Irish trips, and led groups of students on study tours (eight so far), but never stayed longer than a few weeks at a time. I’m excited about the opportunity to see Ireland in a new way and expect everything I think I know to change during this year—to shift, deepen, flip-flop, or multiply. I take my inspiration from Belfast born poet Louis MacNeice (1907-1963), who talked about appreciating plurality and variousness in “Snow”: World is crazier and more of it than we think, Incorrigibly plural. I peel and portion A tangerine and spit the pips and feel The drunkenness of things being various. I can’t tell you yet what I’ll write about—but it will come from that perspective, and it will draw on literature, history, and landscape, as well as on daily life in Dublin—where I’m based—and elsewhere in Ireland. There Will Be Poetry. When I use the word view, I’m thinking of its many meanings: vista, sight, opinion, frame, perspective, belief, narrative stance, idea, and many more. The photograph with this post shows the actual “view from here,” or one of them—the view looking southwest from the living room window of the apartment my husband Ron and I have rented for the year in the Grand Canal Dock area of Dublin. Okay, so I have to stick my head and camera out the window to get that perfect vista, but my desk chair is positioned so I can see most of it when I look up, an image our tall windows break into planes as in a Cubist painting. Those are the Dublin Hills in the background, leading on to mountainous Wicklow beyond. The tall church is St. Mary’s Haddington Road, mentioned in their works by both James Joyce and Patrick Kavanagh. The parish was a scene of some action during the 1916 Rising, and Michael Collins and James Larkin lived nearby. As seen in the portrait photo, the DART passes within a hundred feet of us, and I’ve already gotten used to the clattering sound of wheels on tracks from about 6:00 a.m. to midnight. I admire the bold vision of whoever painted the yellow house in the middle...
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